The fastest way to improve home security is to upgrade to ANSI/BHMA Grade 1 or Grade 2 deadbolts, anchor the strike plate into wall studs with 3-inch screws, and choose pick-resistant cylinders. These three changes turn a weak entry point into a real barrier against break-ins.
We’ve all heard “get a good lock,” but nobody explains what that actually means. It’s not just about buying an expensive brand. Real home security comes down to three things working together: strong hardware, a solid frame connection, and pick-resistant design. Miss any one of these, and a burglar can still get through in seconds. Let’s break down exactly what to look for and why it matters.
Key Takeaways:
- Grade matters most. ANSI/BHMA Grade 1 or Grade 2 deadbolts resist forced entry far better than builder-grade locks.
- The frame is the weak link. Most break-ins happen because the door frame splinters, not because the lock fails.
- Longer screws save your home. Swapping short screws for 3-inch ones anchors your lock into the actual house framing.
- Picking is a real threat. Standard pin-tumbler locks can be bumped or picked in seconds without advanced pins.
- Every entry point counts. Sliding doors and glass panels need their own protection, not just the front door.
Why Deadbolt Grade Matters More Than Brand
The heading question: what makes one deadbolt tougher than another? The answer is its ANSI/BHMA grade, a rating system that tests how much force and use a lock can survive.
Most homes come with builder-grade hardware. That’s the cheapest lock a contractor could install to pass inspection. It looks fine, but it won’t hold up against a swift kick or a crowbar.
Here’s how the grades stack up:
| ANSI/BHMA Grade | Operational Durability | Hammer Impact Resistance | Recommended Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Grade 1 | 250,000 cycles | 10 strikes (75 ft-lbs) | Commercial / high-security exterior doors |
| Grade 2 | 150,000 cycles | 5 strikes (75 ft-lbs) | Standard residential exterior entries |
| Grade 3 | 100,000 cycles | 2 strikes (75 ft-lbs) | Interior rooms or low-risk entry points |
What to Look For When Shopping
Grade alone isn’t the whole story. Pair it with these features:
- A full 1-inch throw bolt made of hardened steel
- Hardened steel construction that resists sawing and prying
- A label confirming ANSI/BHMA certification (check the box or spec sheet)
For most homes, a Grade 1 or Grade 2 deadbolt on every exterior door is the sweet spot between cost and protection.
Why the Strike Plate Is Your Frame’s Weak Point
Here’s something most people miss: a great deadbolt can still fail if the wood around it splinters. That’s exactly what happens during a kick-in attempt, and it’s usually the strike plate’s fault.
The strike plate is the metal piece on the door frame that the bolt slides into. Builders usually attach it with short screws. Those screws only bite into the thin decorative jamb, not the actual wall stud behind it. One good kick, and the whole frame gives way.
How to Reinforce It
- Replace short screws with 3-inch or 3.5-inch hardened steel screws that reach the structural stud.
- Install a heavy-gauge, extended steel strike plate with four to six staggered screw holes.
- Add a reinforcing latch strike box to fully enclose the bolt.
- Upgrade the hinge screws on the other side of the door with 3-inch screws too, for balanced strength.
This upgrade costs very little but makes a massive difference. Think of it like tying a chain to a fence post instead of just a fence panel — the anchor point matters as much as the chain itself.
Here’s a helpful visual walkthrough of installing a high-security deadbolt correctly, including strike plate placement: ASSA High Security Deadbolt Installation Video.
Stopping Picking, Bumping, and Drilling
A strong door means nothing if someone can quietly pick the lock open. Standard pin-tumbler locks are surprisingly easy to bump or pick, even for beginners with cheap tools.
Features That Defeat Covert Entry
- Cylinders with spool, serrated, or mushroom driver pins that jam picking tools
- Hardened steel ball bearings or drill-resistant faceplates near the shear line
- Restricted keyway cylinders (like Medeco, Schlage Primus, or Mul-T-Lock) that block unauthorized key copies
- Smart deadbolts with Grade 1 or Grade 2 chassis and keyway-free designs, which remove the bumping risk entirely
If you’re considering an upgrade, our home security upgrade services can help match the right cylinder to your doors.
Don’t Forget the Other Entry Points
Front doors get all the attention, but burglars love back doors, sliding doors, and glass panels just as much.
- Sliding patio doors: Add a two-point locking system or loop lock so the panel can’t be lifted off its track.
- Glass panel doors: Use a captive-key deadbolt or polycarbonate security film so nobody can break the glass and reach the lock.
- Door edges near the lock: Install a metal wrap-around reinforcement plate to stop wood splitting during impact.
A house is only as secure as its weakest door. Walk your property and check every entry point, not just the one you use most.
Locks Work Best as Part of a Bigger System
Better locks stop forced entry, but they work even better paired with monitoring and alerts. Pairing solid hardware with security cameras and alarm monitoring gives you both prevention and awareness. If a lock is ever compromised, you’ll know right away instead of finding out later.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best deadbolt grade for home security?
Grade 1 offers the highest resistance to forced entry, but Grade 2 is a solid, budget-friendly choice for most homes. Either is a major step up from the Grade 3 hardware many builders install by default.
How do I stop my door frame from splitting during a break-in?
Replace the short strike plate screws with 3-inch hardened steel screws that reach the wall stud. Adding a reinforced strike box and wrap-around door edge plate adds even more protection.
Can smart locks be picked or bumped?
Many smart deadbolts remove the traditional keyway entirely, which eliminates picking and bumping risks. Look for models with a Grade 1 or Grade 2 chassis rating for the strongest base.
Do I need to secure sliding glass doors too?
Yes, sliding doors are a common weak point. A two-point locking system or loop lock keeps the panel from being lifted off its track.
Is it worth hiring a professional for lock installation?
Professional installation ensures screws reach the studs, strike plates align correctly, and every entry point is covered. Our installation team handles this so nothing gets missed.
Bringing It All Together for a Safer Home
Improving your home security with better locks isn’t one single fix. It’s a combination of the right grade, a reinforced frame, pick-resistant cylinders, and coverage on every entry point. Get these right, and you’ve built a real physical barrier, not just a lock that looks tough.
If repairs or upgrades are overdue, check out our lock repair services to fix what’s already in place.
Ready to lock down your home the right way? Callaway Security & Sound can assess your doors, recommend the right hardware, and handle the installation for you. Contact us today to get started.
